new ireland ARTS & culture
New Ireland people have been so blessed with rich and varied cultural practices, and values that blend well with the environment.
The people of New Ireland have three distinct culture or traditional practices: Malagan, Kabai and Tumbuan. While Malagan and Kabai are unique only to New Ireland including "traditional shark hunting", Tumbuan which is a men's sacred society and also widely practiced by the Tolais in East New Britain Province, actually originated from the southern area of New Ireland in the Lak/Kandas area where it is mostly practiced.
Over the generations, in accordance with these cultural traditions, many incredible artistic practices developed. From wooden carvings, instruments, shell money and jewellery, and woven items.
New Ireland’s culture is rich, colourful and intricate.
malagan culture
Unique to New Ireland is the carving of Malagan figures. They are only a concluding, but integral, part of months long mortuary ceremonies in the northern New Ireland area, but because of their 3-dimensional nature and intricate interweaving of one figure into another they immediately caught the attention of early travellers. Museums in Europe, especially Germany, have many fine examples that today would not be found.
The Malagan practice once covered the areas extending from Tabar Islands, Madak, Kuot, Noatsi, Nalik, Kara, Tigak, Lavongai and Djaul. This is evident as you visit museums all over the world which hold pieces from areas mentioned that once upon a time was practising the malagan tradition.
Today only the Tabar Group of Islands and a few of the Nalik villages on the east coast of New Ireland mainland, are still active in observing the rules and the use of Malagan carvings in their cultural feasts.
kabai culture
Kabai culture or traditional practice involved activities similar to that of the Malagan practice. However, in this particular tradition, there are no carvings or carvers involved. Instead, a tree trunk or a large branch of a tree, specially selected is cut, neatly trimmed up, and placed in a selected location in the village.
The word Kabai means; the respected warrior or chief. It is derived from the Barok language in Sentral Niu Ailan. The initial stages of this event is, when a clan that has hosted the Kabai passes on the ‘cane’, it is a symbolic gesture that clans respect because no other clan can host the Kabai when another clan has the ‘cane’. In other words, no cane no Kabai. Once a clan is in possession of the ‘cane, they visit immediate and extended family to invite them to the Kabai feast that the clan will be hosting. ‘Kruse’ is the local term used, the relatives are given shell money or money as an invitation to attend the Kabai. This gives them time to save money, food and pig for the Kabai feast which is costly and a very big task for the chief and his clan.
The Kabai culture is a ceremonial feast of saying goodbye or farewelling the dead. This cultural event can last up to 3 to 6 months which the clan themselves decide. Garden food, store food and pigs are brought forward for the feast according to the number of deaths each clan has had over the years. The number of pigs can range between 50 to 100 for this big feast. After the feast the tree that was used to build the rack to stack all the food and pigs is left behind and decorated which is now known as the ‘Kabai’.
Kabai is practiced mainly around Central New Ireland.
tumbuan culture
In the island’s south are the Tumbuan traditions. The people from the south invaded the Gazelle Peninsula and settled the Duke of York Group several hundred years ago.
The sacred “Tumbuan” society is a well guarded secret on which nothing much has been written as the villagers jealously guarded their secrets from researchers.
Dukduks (male) and tumbuans (female) are common to all three cultures.
shark calling
On the West Coast of Central New Ireland, beliefs are related to various Cultural identities which are shown & manifested in the capturing of sharks in the ocean bare handed, armed only with a bush material noose tied to a propeller shaped piece of wood.
In a world where most humans view sharks with a mix of fear and loathing, Papua New Guinea is one of the few places where people embrace them. For the villagers in Tembin, Mesi, and Kontu—the three towns that still practice shark calling—sharks are an integral part of their creation story, a religious faith that has endured for centuries.
Shark-Calling is an age-old practice delivered from generation to generation. Usually from father to son, or grandfather to grandson. Everyone goes shark-calling individually. In the early morning they start paddling out, as far as 5-6 miles away from the shoreline,
Image: Claudio Sieber
Visit our YouTube Playlist on Shark Calling in New Ireland
sing sings
Sing Sings don’t happen just because there are tourists around. More often than not, there aren’t any tourists at these incredible events. Every single member of the community will generally be involved in some way. A sing sing is almost always part of a celebratory event, whether it be a funeral or a festival, and each group will be individual in their performance of centuries old stories in dance. Some may be traditional in every respect, and others may take on a newer, more modern & creative approach to their interpretations of ancient legends.
Image by Danielle Smith at Ungalik Island, Lavongai
Visit our YouTube playlist of Sing Sings in New Ireland
Tribal artefacts
In a region where language varies from village to village, artistic expression differs in style just as dramatically. Traditional canoes, carvings, woven baskets and trays, bilums (string bags), masks, spears, carvings and other artefacts all reflect the diverse cultural beliefs of the people who produce them.
In particular, Malagan Carvings are highly sought after by museums and galleries all over the world.
tatanua MASKS
The term tatanua designates both the helmet mask with a thick crest of orange plant fiber and the dance during which it is worn. Both the mask and the dance are associated with the elaborate funerary festivals. Preparation for tatanua dance involves a number of prohibitions, including sexual abstinence, in order to avoid misfortune. A successful performance proves the ability of men to interact with the supernatural power embodied by the tatanua masks.
The mask in this picture is from Nusa Island (Kavieng) and was donated to the American Museum of Natural History by German Naturalist Otto Finsch in 1898.
funerary TOTEMS
The ephemeral Malagan carvings of northern New Ireland, are among the most intricate sculptures in Oceania.
The most spectacular Malagan carvings are created and displayed during the final memorial ceremony honouring the deceased, which, due to the great expense and extensive preparations involved, often occurs months or years after a person's death. The carvings constitute a visual résumé of the deceased's achievements in obtaining Malagan rites.
The totem above is on display at The Met 5th Avenue in New York. It is from the late 19th Century, and was donated to the Museum in 2007
shell money (mis)
Each place in Papua New Guinea has a different type of traditional money, usually made of different types of shells. Shell money is still made to this day, and is most often exchanged on special occasions, like weddings or funerals.
Traditional New Ireland Mis are made from the shell of the gastropod Chrysostoma paradoxum. These shells originated from the Tigak Islands of New Ireland Province.
The shells are placed in the fire to darken the colour before being formed into thousands of the thinnest handcut discs to make up a long strand. The value of the strand of mis is based on its length and the workmanship.
kapkap ring
Kapkaps are made from clam shell and turtle shell. They are like ornaments that can be worn as a pendant around the neck, or on a headband on the forehead.
Kapkaps are only worn on special occasions, like weddings, feasts and funerals. Only people who have earned the right to be called ‘maimais’, can wear kapkaps. A maimai is a family or clan leader, who knows a lot about traditional culture and customs. In New Ireland, only men can become maimais. The type of designs on a kapkap can show people what ranking, or type of knowledge the maimai has. When the maimai learns new knowledge, or earns the right to speak for another family or clan, a new kapkap is made for him.
This Kapkap from New Ireland, is on display in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. It is from late 1800’s.
lasisi (malagan canoe)
The Lasisi canoe (cemetery canoe) is a custom carving belonging to the place mat mat (cemetery). The name of this type of carving is pokves which means a bundle of paddles. The malagan and style of execution is entrusted to the master carver for the ceremonial feast. He undertakes to produce the malagan for the families who are the owners of the designs. Malagan refers both to objects that are powerful and colourful and also to feasts where sacred objects are displayed and cultural wealth and experiences are shared.
The Lasisi Malagan canoe pictured here was created in 1999 by the master carvers Edward Salle (born 1939) and his son Mathew Salle (born 1969) of Tatau Island of the Tabar Islands in New Ireland. It is currently on display in the National Gallery of Victoria, in Melbourne Australia.
lunet (friction drum)
In northern New Ireland, wooden drums known as lunet were used as musical instruments during malagan ceremonies, elaborate feasts that honored the dead. In contrast to the complex funerary carvings displayed during these ceremonies, drums were neither painted nor adorned with intricate designs. Instead, they were unique in their simplicity of form, and their decoration was limited to a series of carved, almond-shaped eyes inset with opercula, the calcified "doors" that originally covered the openings of snail shells.
The Lunet in this picture from Northern New Ireland, is from the late 19th Century. It is on display at the The Met Fifth Avenue, in New York.
handicrafts
bilums
A bilum is a string bag made by hand in Papua New Guinea. The bag can be made by a process known as looping or knotless netting or by crocheting. Traditionally, the string used was handmade, normally from plant materials. Now, however, many people who can afford to do so make their bilums from store bought yarn and string.
Bilums are used to carry a wide range of items, from shopping goods in large bilums to personal items in purse-sized varieties. Mothers often carry their babies in bilums.
shell jewellery
Using traditional techniques, many people in New Ireland make a living from crafting beautiful jewellery designed for modern, day-to-day wear. Next to the main market on the foreshore in Kavieng, you will find the Craft Market, but you will also most likely come across artisans in many villages throughout New Ireland.
The necklace here is by Bilas Designs, who are based on Nago Island and work with more than 80 artisans in Papua New Guinea, many from small villages in New Ireland Province. bilasdesigns.com
woven items
There are many many designs of woven baskets and bags being crafted in New Ireland. Some are traditional, whose designs have been used for centuries. Others are more modern and colourful.
Pandanus baskets and purses are beautifully made, woven and decorated in many different designs. You will find people in every village crafting these beautiful items for their own use and for sale. You can find woven items for sale at the Kavieng Market, and another great place is at Panaconda Craft Market on Nusa Lik Island.
carvings
Wood carving has been a part of life for centuries in New Ireland, as is evident in the many carving traditions mentioned above. For some carvers though, they have taken on a more modern and creative approach to the carvings that they make. Doing away with tradition, and exploring their own individual style. As a result, there are many carvers throughout the province creating truly unique and interesting pieces.
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local foods
The staple food in New Ireland is saksak (sago), a white starchy food harvested from the pulp of the sago palm. Chicken is popular and pork is also eaten, although pigs are highly prized and are usually reserved for ceremonial feasts. Seafood is the main source of local people’s protein.
Cultural feasts are hosted on special occasions like a wedding, death, initiation ceremony, or at a tribal reconciliation. The traditional cooking method is the mumu, or underground oven. A pit is dug and preheated stones are placed inside. Meat and vegetables are wrapped in leaves and placed on the hot stones to cook, and the pit is covered with leaves and branches to seal the oven.
In New Ireland, we are extremely lucky to have the Lelet Plateau in Central New Ireland, which averages at over 600m above sea level allowing a huge variety of fruits and vegetables to be grown that would not normally be associated with equatorial islands. Apart from the traditional sweet potatoes, yams and taro there are others such as tomatoes, spring onions, herbs, beans, peppers, carrots, cucumbers, chokos & pumpkin. This has made Lelet Plateau the vegetable basket for New Ireland, supplying the markets of Kavieng & Namatanai.
smoked fish
Of course most people in New Ireland don’t have refrigeration, so out of necessity when coming back from fishing, they smoke much of their catch so that it has a longer shelf life. There is no limit to the type of fish that they will smoke, and a visit to the market will give you some idea of the huge varieties of fish living in the waters here.
Image: John Jemi
taro
Most villages will have taro growing nearby, as the plant grows easily and quickly. People eat both the edible corm (root) and the leaves. They will cook it directly over fire, roast, bake or boil the corm, which has a sweet, nutty flavour.
Taro is almost always involved when cooking a mumu for a celebration.
SAKSAK (SAGO)
They say that more energy is expended just in the harvesting of sago than is actually gained from eating it! Nonetheless, sago, or saksak as it is called here, is a staple of the New Irelander diet. The starch from the pulp is turned into many many different dishes, and is a favourite snack purchased in the form of a slice cooked in huge trays in banana leaves at the local markets.
Every part of the palm is used. From roof thatching, and for making bags, baskets, and cages, to feeding the pigs and chickens.
The sago beetle is one pest which attacks the sago palm. It bores into the trunks of the palms and lays its eggs inside. But locals consume the larvae of these sago beetles as a highly esteemed delicacy.
pitpit
Pit-pit is the edible stalk of a wild cane that grows rampantly in New Ireland. It looks like lemongrass on steroids. It is a fibrous flesh encased in tough outer leaves, and is delicious cooked in coconut milk, or cooked still in its leaves over fire, like corn on the cob.
Kuka (mudcrabs)
Mud crabs from New Ireland are deemed to be the best mud crabs in Papua New Guinea, and are flown all over the country.
They are quite an expensive item to buy at the market, relative to other foods, but most locals will have access to mangroves to catch their own.
For tourists to New Ireland it is a huge treat, as mud crabs generally cost a small fortune in the countries that they come from.
Image: Eric Madeja Photography
local nuts
Galip nut, Pao nuts, Pili nuts, Peanuts, Sea Almonds and more! We are lucky to have so many great nuts growing locally in New Ireland.
In the market you will find nuts conveniently already shelled, and threaded onto long thin sticks, for sale. In villages, you will find kids hanging out under trees smashing the outer shells or skins and eating them immediately.
kaukau (sweet potato)
The sweet potato is an important staple food crop all over Papua New Guinea, often grown in raised mounds to encourage water drainage. There are numerous varieties. The young leaves of the sweet potato plant are also eaten.
fresh fish
With over 140 islands making up New Ireland Province, fish is obviously going to be a major component of our diet here. Most people will fish with handlines from their canoes for small reef fish, but also head out in larger boats and canoes further offshore for larger fish like tuna, mahi mahi & mackerel.
tropical fruits
Best in the world!! Papaya, Pineapple, Watermelon, Starfruit, Ton (a relative of the lychee), guava, limes, pomelo, oranges, avocado, lau lau (bell apples), rambutan, soursop, and many many different kinds of Bananas. The fruits in New Ireland are the sweetest and the juiciest you will find anywhere.
kindam (crayfish)
Another treat for tourists, as the crayfish here is far more affordable than most other countries.
TAPIOK (CASSAVA)
Like taro, most villages will have tapiok growing around their homes, and there are a few varieties. Both the root and the leaves are eaten, and there are lots of different ways that they are prepared.
Popular at the markets are a tapiok slice, mixed with fresh coconut milk and cooked in large trays wrapped in banana leaves. The slice is made with or without sweet bananas, and are a very popular breakfast item or snack.
kumu (greens)
Aibika, Pumpkin Tops, Ferntips, Aupa, Kangkung, Kares, Cassava leaves and more! Leafy greens are in abundance and form part of nearly every meal in local homes in New Ireland.
coconuts
And last, but certainly not least, the Coconut. Grown all over New Ireland, the coconut has been an incredibly important plant for every reason imaginable throughout the history of our province. We drink them, we eat them raw, we grate them to make milk, we use them for building our homes and weave baskets to transport our produce, we dry it in the sun and in kilns and sell the resulting copra to markets all over the world, and to make oils for cooking and to put on our skin. In coconuts we trust!!
other necessities in new ireland
Buai (betelnut)
Betelnut is a huge part of daily life for most New Irelanders. What started as a sacred ritual for special events, has now become a day to day, all day everyday, habit for more than half the population. Giving the chewer a high not unlike drinking a strong coffee, betelnut is consumed with a mustard stick dipped in lime powder, creating a chemical reaction which is absorbed through the gums, giving ‘energy’ and the tell-tail bright red mouth.
Image: David Kirkland Photography
sp beer
SP Lager is synonymous with Papua New Guinea, and it’s presence is fairly obvious throughout the country in every town and village store, with the unmistakable bright green & yellow logos. Papua New Guineans are proud of their locally made beer, and it is consumed for relaxation and also integrated it cultural events during big feasts or festivals.